A must know for aquariumists

[MadMatt]

I have run into a bunch of really good articles I would love to share with our group. Keep in mind myself and May we keep and breed Discus, so forgive me that all the articles reference to Discus but healthy fish keeping is all relatively the same.

[MadMatt]

What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

Many people who are new to keeping discus assume that since the water parameters (Ph, TDS, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are all normal, and the water appears crystal clear, they make the mistake of thinking that the water is healthy. It may be for some other types of fish, but not discus unless the water is also biologically clean. How to keep the water biologically clean, and why this is critical for healthy discus is the purpose of this post.

Assuming that the tank has a well established bio-filter (which maintains ammonia, and nitrite levels at zero), the next most important water quality consideration is bioload and biomass resulting from food fed to the fish. Food contains organic compounds that are not toxic to the fish, however two undesirable affects result. First, there are bacteria that feed on the organic compounds and this results in other compounds that are toxic. This process is called decomposition and is very common in nature as evident by the foul smell of a dead animal or decaying vegetation. Second, pathogens (bacteria, viruses, and parasites) feed on the organic compounds and this permits them to multiply greatly. Note that there are many different types of bacteria in the tank, some are beneficial and some are not.

The recommendations I give in this post are mine alone. In some instances there is considerable differences on the SD Forum as to what these recommendations should be.

What Is Bioload and Biomass and How To Control Them

Bioload and biomass are affected greatly by the type of food and how it is fed to the fish. Food such as beef heart mix and unrinsed blood worms (and others) contribute more organic compounds than freeze dried or flake foods. When feeding the fish, do not overfeed and feed them more often with a little at a time, so that more of the food is actually eaten by the fish.

Bioload and biomass both result from food placed in the tank. The fish eat a portion of the food and the remaining part either falls to the bottom of the tank, or becomes suspended or dissolved in the water column. The portion eaten by the fish is partly decomposed by the digestive tract of the fish and is eliminited as feces. The bioload/biomass exists in several forms: uneaten food and feces, suspended/dissolved organic material in the water column, food and feces existing in the substrate, and food that collects on all surfaces in the tank. These are controlled by water changes or by syphoning material from the tank bottom.

Uneaten Food and Feces-- Feces contains food that is not completely decomposed and this usually collects with uneaten food on the bottom of the tank. If this material is neglected, it will collect into a very large biomass which will permit pathogens to multiply greatly as they feed on it. As further decomposition takes place, other undesirable compounds will be produced, and these will remain at the bottom or become suspended in the water column. The fish will ingest some of these pathogens when they feed at the bottom. Control of this is accomplished with tank maintenance by syphoning the bottom and this should be done on a regular basis. For adult discus, my recommendation is no less than twice a week. Juveniles require more frequent cleaning.

Suspended or Dissolved Organic Compounds-- These organic compounds exist in the water column as bioload. They originate from uneaten food and feces containing partially decomposed food, which is suspended or dissolved in the water column. Some of these organic compounds decompose in the water column. Water circulation transports this bioload to the substrate (it one exists) and to all other surfaces with in the tank including the walls, bottom, and anything else in the tank. Control of these organic compounds in the water column is accomplished with water exchange. My recommendation is not less than 30% daily for adults and greater amounts for juveniles.

Gravel or Sand Substrate-- Uneaten food and feces becomes trapped in gravel and this can accumulate into a huge biomass, even if one attempts to clean it regularly. Thats because much of the organic material will stick to the gravel thus making it impossible to remove it without also removing the gravel. Aslo, water circulation can be blocked in the gravel thus depriving the flow of oxygen which will stop the process of decomposition and this can result in even bigger problems. Thus my recommendation is to avoid gravel substrate completely. Sand is a better substrate than gravel because feces and food are less likely to become trapped. However the sand at the top still collects a biomass because food suspended in the water column will stick to the sand particles at the top and thus collect to form a biomass. This biomass will remain in the tank unless the sand is also removed. For these reasons, my recommendation is to go with a bare bottom tank, especially for anyone just beginning. A bare bottom tank is not only much cleaner, but also much easier to clean.

Food Collecting on All Surfaces in the Tank-- Another form of biomass occurs when suspended organic material in the water column collects on everything in the tank including walls, bottom, decorative items (artificial plants, rocks, etc..) and everything else in the tank. This form of biomass is different than gravel substrate because water circulation is available to allow the organic material to decompose. Control of this biomass is accomplished by removing the decorative items and cleaning them outside the tank, and then wiping the sides and bottom of the tank clean. This loosens the biomass and places it in suspension where water changes remove it from the tank. A pretty good test for assessing this biomass on decorative items is what I call the "sniff" test. Remove the item from the tank and place it close to the nose, a biomass will exhibit a foul odor. This test can be used as a pretty good indication of how often it should be cleaned. My recommendation for cleaning decorative items is to place them in a bucket and add a 8 to 1 mixture of water and hydrogen peroxide (3%). Hydrogen peroxide can be purchased in the Wal-mart pharmacy for under $1 per quart. It is non toxic and can be rinsed off after letting it set overnight in the bucket. Does a wonderful job of removing algae. My recommendation is to clean this form of biomass not less ten days for adult discus, and more often for juveniles.

Why Discus Require Biologically Clean Water

Many of the strains of discus available today have evolved in water with a low Ph for thousands of years. As such their immune systems have adapted to the quantity and types of pathogens (bacteria, viruses, and parasites) that are common to their native habitat. It turns out that water with higher Ph has not only many more pathogens, but also a different type. Thus the fish are much more sensitive to attack from unfamiliar pathogens. Young discus are especially vulnerable because the immune system adapts somewhat as they age. This is a very serious problem to the extent that many discus keepers recommend that fish from different suppliers should not be mixed due to the possibility that bacteria from one supplier will be harmful to discus from a different supplier, even though they are not harmful to the first.

Another important consideration results because discus are quite sensitive and become easily stressed. Stress can be caused by changes in water parameters (Ph, TDS, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate), temperature, lighting, motion outside the tank, pecking order, and other factors. Water that is not biologically clean also causes stress. In fact, whenever I notice that my fish are not acting normal, the first thing I do is to suspect something wrong with the water and immediately make a water change. The amount of aggression occurring between the fish can also be a sign of stress. My experience has shown that when I get all of the tank conditions correct and stabilized, that the aggression due to the pecking order is greatly reduced. When discus become stressed, they often become lethargic and refuse to eat. When this happens, their immune system becomes weakened and they are much more subject to attack from pathogens.

[MadMatt]

Difference between Epsom salt and regular salt

Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) is a laxitive. It will help constipated, bloated fish pass feces (poop). You use 1 or 2 teaspoons for each 10 gallons of tank water. Disolve the epsom salt in a cup of water and pour into tank. It should work in 2 to 4 hours. You can redose after 4 hours, but if it hasn't worked in 24 hours, it probably won't work at all.

Regular salt (sodium chloride) also sold as kosher salt, pickling salt, rock salt or aquarium salt is the type of salt we eat. It helps discus gill function and will reduce fungus and bacteria at high enough concentrations. A typical dose is 1 or 2 tablespoons per ten gallon of tank water disolved in a cup and poured in tank. This treatment usually lasts a week or so.

To keep the salt concentration stable you must add more salt when you add clean water to the tank. Let's say you have removed 10 gallons of water for a water change and will be adding 10 gallons of clean water back. Add another 1 or 2 tablespoons salt to replace the salt lost through water change.

While epsom salt and regular salt are good on an occasional basis it is not good to have them in the tank all the time. the salt used in aquaria must be non-iodized. Plants do not appreciate salt.

All salts slightly raise the ph and hardness. Aquarium Salt and Epsom salts should be used in a hospital tank. Carbon will not remove these --only water changes will.

[MadMatt]

Best Discus presentation ever by the owner of SimplyDiscus.com
m.youtube.com/watch?v=VXe3VKh7qF8

[MadMatt]

Warning* mostly applies to Discus.

What to do before going on Vacation

This time of year the forum gets asked "what should I do before going on vacation."

I tried to do a write up for everyone to review as a "basic" guideline on what to do.

Remember, adult discus can survive without food for a week

If you do not have someone to take care of your fish before you go then do this; if adults, don't feed 48 hours prior to leaving and do as big of a water change as you can before you go. If someone can feed your adults but not change the water, it would just be best to not feed at all.

If juvies, (not advisable to purchase small fish before you go on vacation. If your source has them now, they will have them when you get back.) you have a few options. If you have someone who can feed them and do water changes, have that person knowledgeable of your setup before you leave. As we know the key to juvenile growth is good food and clean water.

If you have fry on parents, they should be fine if gone 7 days (depending on how long and how many have been attached, the fry could eat too much and hurt the parents), any longer than that, you could have dead fry when you get home. Again, the importance of having someone look after your spawning pairs.

Always check your equipment before leaving (heaters, air pumps, filters, sump, etc.)

If you have a sump, make sure someone can monitor and fill because their will be evaporation.

[MadMatt]

Everything you might want to know about fish food.

LIVE FOODS


Crustaceans
Brine Shrimp (Artemia salina)
Brine shrimp is one of the most popular live foods in the hobby. Most brine shrimp available come from San Francisco or the Great Salt Lake. Brine shrimp are available in live, frozen, and freeze-died forms. Brine shrimp eggs are widely available for home cultivation. The young nauplii are excellent food for fry. Adult brine shrimp are suitable for small to large fish. Brine shrimp provide good roughage with their exoskeletons and do not harbor disease to affect freshwater species.

Water Fleas (Daphnia)
Daphnia are an excellent supplementary food that can be fed every 7-10 days to provide roughage. Daphnia are available in frozen, freeze-dried, and occasionally, live forms.

Cyclops
Cyclops are a good food for large fry and small fish. These crustaceans will attack small fry. Cyclops are available in frozen and live forms.
River Shrimps (Gammarus)
These shrimps are a natural food for many large fish, especially cichlids. In order to be kept alive, keep these shrimp in cool water with strong aeration.


Worms
Black Worms
Blackworms are segmented worms typically raised on fish farms (hence significantly cleaner than Tubifex worms).

Tubifex Worms
Tubifex inhabit muddy, polluted streams and cannot be recommended as fish food because they harbor parasites and toxins, and have a low beneficial nutrient content. Always soak the worms in water for several days before feeding. Feed sparingly as uneaten Tubifex worms will burrow in the gravel and may die. Tubifex worms are only good to feed temporarily, if fish refuse all other foods.

White Worms (Enchytraea)
White worms are found in decomposing materials including compost piles and seaweed piles. White worms are fatty and should only be fed on an occasionally basis. White worms are commonly used to feed older fry. These worms can be cultured at home.

Earthworms
Earthworms can be found in most gardens. Before feeding them, clean off all dirt and slime. Earthworms are a good food for large, carnivorous fish.


Insect Larvae
Bloodworms (Chironomus)
A favorite fish food that can be purchased frozen, freeze-dried, or live. In nature blood worms are known for constructing cocoons of plant debris and mud. Chironomus mosquitoes do not bite.

Black Mosquito Larvae
Black Mosquito larvae are an excellent food, full of vitamins that appear to help trigger spawning in some species. Mosquito larvae are easily caught in ponds and can be raised in standing containers of water. Beware that black mosquito sting.

White Mosquito Larvae, Glassworms
Glassworms are found in ponds. These insect larvae develop into gnats. Glassworms are available in live and frozen forms.

Meal Worms
Meal worms are the larvae in beetles and are available in many pet shops. Meal worms can be fed to large fish. These larva should not be considered a regular food, but an occasional supplement.


Insects
Fruit Flies (Drosophila)
Use only short-winged, non-flying fruit flies which are less likely to escape. Drosophila are a natural food for many species and can be used to help stimulate spawning. Drosophila cultures are available mail ordered from breeders. In order to culture Drosophila, place a feeding mush in a jar with two or three dozen fruit flies. The mush can be prepared by blending a banana, one can of plums, corn or oat flakes, one peach or orange, and a cup of vinegar. The mush should be sprinkled with bakerÕs yeast.

Flies, Crickets, Beetles, Back swimmers
House flies can be captured, disabled, and fed to medium to large, carnivorous fish. Crickets can be captured or purchased at a pet store. Beetles and back swimmers can also be captured.


Mollusks
Snails
Small water snails, common stowaways on water plants, can be fed to several species including Pufferfish.


Vertebrates
Feeder Fish, Frogs, Tadpoles
Goldfish and guppies are widely used as feeder fish for large, carnivorous species. Feeder fish can carry disease or parasites. Many aquariasts medicate the water which houses the feeder fish to reduce the risk of the spread of disease into the main tank. Frogs and tadpoles are used on occasion as foods for large fish. Usually these creatures are captured in local ponds and streams.


FROZEN FOODS

There are many frozen foods available for freshwater fish. Among these include: all of the live foods mentioned previously, krill, plankton, squid, vegetable-based foods, and other meat-based products. There are frozen foods containing a mixture of ingredients formulated specially for certain fish types. Some aquariasts make homemade frozen foods with meats, live foods, and vegetables.


FREEZE-DRIED FOODS

Many varieties of freeze-dried foods are available. Freeze-dried foods have an advantage because they retain all the nutrients of live food but with out the hassle of keeping live foods. However do not feed exclusively freeze-dried foods as, like live foods, they lack vitamins that can be provided by a good flake food.


FLAKE, TABLET, & PELLETED FOODS

Flake, tablet, and pelleted foods are the most widely used food for aquarium fish for good reasons: they are generally inexpensive, easy to use, and well-balanced. These foods are available in many forms including specially formulated mixtures for certain fish or conditions.
Flakes can be fed one to four times a day, but only in small amounts which can be consumed by the fish in two minutes or less (Algae pellets are an exception). Flakes absorb water within 10 seconds of being added to the water. With fish that feed on the flakes before they absorb water, the flakes should be soaked before adding them to the tank.

MICRO FOODS

Micro foods are easier to collect or culture than they are to buy. Micro foods are usually used for raising small fry.

Green Water (Suspended Algae)
Green water is easily cultured. Simply take a jar of aquarium or aged tap water and leave it in a sunny spot. Add some algae from the aquarium and add a few drops of plant fertilizer. The suspended algae should develop within a few days. Dispense the Ògreen waterÓ using an eye dropper.

Infusoria and Rotifers
Infusoria is the name given to certain single-celled microorganisms. Infusoria are often present in the aquarium. Infusoria can be cultured by adding crushed banana or lettuce to a jar filled with aquarium water. Within a few days, the presence of infusoria can be determined by the cloudy water. Feed the infusoria using an eyedropper. Rotifer eggs can often be purchased at pet shops.

Other Protists
Other protists can be collected, with care, from ponds and other sources of clean water. Pass the water through fine mesh in order to collect the small organisms.
Beware that some microorganisms may harm fry.

Egg Yolk
Egg yolk can be prepared for feeding by shaking yolk in a jar until the water is cloudy. Then dispense the yolk using an eyedropper.


VACATION FEEDING Do not add any new plants or fish to the tank later than one month before the vacation. Prior to taking a vacation, the tank should be given a thorough water change and no new fish or plants should be added. If the aquariast is to be gone less than a week, the fish need not be fed unless young fish or fry are kept. If the aquariast is gone for longer than a week or does not feel comfortable not feeding their fish, then an automatic feeder can be purchased. But a well-known brand that will not likely breakdown during the vacation. Be sure to test the feeder for a least a week prior to vacationing and remember not to allow the feeder distribute too much food. An alternative is to have a friend or neighbor feed the fish and look after the tank. Leave previously measured daily feeding portions and a check list of things (Water temperature, filters, dead fish, etc.) for the friend to look after. A less popular alternative is to leave the fish at a reliable aquarium store with feeding instructions. Usually the fee for this service is not too high.


FEEDING HABITATS
Fish are usually divided into four eating groups: carnivores, herbivores, omnivores, and limnivores.
Carnivores are meat-eating fish which are usually predatory by nature. In the wild, these species feed on fish, insects, insect larvae, and crustaceans. Large carnivores may only eat a few times a week. Carnivores have a large stomach and a short digestive tract. In the aquarium, depending on the size of the carnivore, the fish can be fed live foods and flakes.
Herbivores are vegetable, plant, fruit, and algae feeders by nature. Herbivores are frequent feeders and have a long digestive system. In the aquarium, herbivores can be fed flakes, vegetables, and plant matter.
Omnivores feed on a variety of foods in nature. In the aquarium, omnivores can be given live, flake, and vegetable foods.
Limnivores, also known as mud-eaters, feed on algae and detritus (and the microorganisms that inhabit them), and rasp on wood. Limnivores are constantly feeding and have a small stomach with a long digestive tract. In aquaria, limnivores can be fed pellets and algae.


FOOD COMPOSITION

Depending on the fishÕs feeding habits (carnivore, omnivore, herbivore, limnivore), the percentage of fat, fiber, and protein varies.
------------ Carnivore --- Omnivore --- Herbivore --- Limnivore
Fat -------- 3-6% --------- 2-5% ------- 1-3% -------- 2-4%
Fiber ------ 2-4% --------- 3-8% ------- 2-6% -------- 5-10%
Protein --- 45-70% ------ 30-40% ----- 30-40% ----- 15-30%
Moisture - 6-10% -------- 6-10% ------ 6-10% ------- 6-10%



VITAMINS

Vitamin A
effect: cell growth
symptoms of deficiency: poor growth, deformation of vertebral column and fins
source: liver, spinach, carrots

Vitamin B1 (thiamin)
effect: breakdown of carbohydrates, promotes growth and fertility
symptoms of deficiency: frightened behavior, poor growth, decline in appetite.
source: paprika, peas, carrots, spinach

Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
effect: control of enzymes and proteins
symptoms of deficiency: cloudy eyes, poor growth, loss of appetite
source: spinach, peas, paprika, carrots

Vitamin B3 (Nicotin acid)
effect: food breakdown of proteins
symptoms of deficiency: weakness, aimless movements, tumors
source: peas, liver, spinach, paprika

Vitamin B5 (Pantothene acid)
effect: hormone production, metabolism
symptoms of deficiency: weakness, sticking gill membranes
source: liver, paprika

Vitamin B6 (Pyridomin) and B12 (Cyanocobalamin)
effect: enzymes, protein metabolism
symptoms of deficiency: increased panting, loss of appetite, timidness, poor growth
source: liver, paprika

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)
effect: bone and tooth development, healing, digestion
symptoms of deficiency: altered skin, liver, and muscle tissue
source: paprika, peas, spinach

Vitamin D3
effect: bone development
symptoms of deficiency: degeneration of bone
source: fish liver, fish meal

Vitamin E
effect: development of sex organs, fertility
symptoms of deficiency: infertility
source: eggs, cereal

Vitamin K
effect: blood formation, blood clotting
symptoms of deficiency: death follow injuries (abrasions)
source: lettuce, peas, spinach

Vitamin M (folic acid)
effect: blood formation, metabolism
symptoms of deficiency: dark skin pigmentation
source:

Choline
effect: growth, fat production, coloration
symptoms of deficiency: enlarged kidney and liver
source: paprika

[MadMatt]

This is a qt procedure most members of a Discus forum do:
QT procedure....
1. No matter who the breeder, or seller is. I isolate the fish a minimum of 6 weeks. *All equipment is dedicated *to the QT setup.
2. When I first receive the fish *They are *dipped in methylene blue and placed in a tank that has *salt at *concentration of 1-2 tablespoons /10 gal. This helps them deal with stress.
3. If there are any signs of bacteria or fungus, they get an increase in the salt to 1 tablespoon/ 1 gal water + furan 2 until the probelm clears.
4. dewormed *with a tape worm specific medicine-praziquantel

Once eating....
5 fed *medicated gel food containing panacur * for 1week, longer if I suspect worms.
6. fed a medicated food, with metronidazole to deal with internal protozoans

7. externals parasite are dealt with using formalin , fluke tabs, *clout, or potassium Permanganate.

8. *I ALWAYS *Assume Flukes...the gift that keeps on giving... currently I have found 3 weeks *of treatment with Flubendazole *or prazi to be the most effective, and safest treatment .

at the end of 6 weeks *I take a cull from my other tanks and add it to the QT *tank This tells me if the new fish are safe *to mix with mine, and tells me if mine are safe to mix with them.

[MadMatt]

Shipping Fish 101... A primer

Hi all,
I've written this article in a lesser form before but I decided to re-do...and post it here as I have gotten alot of questions about how to ship Fish. I am a hobbyists breeder and I have shipped often in the past... I am not a commercial shipper of fish and there are other ways to do this... what I have done here is meant as a starting point for NON-commercial to beginning commercial shippers...




Shipping Fish 101.....
by Al Sabetta
There comes a time in hobbyist's life when they may feel the need or desire to ship their home bred fish to far away locations . Perhaps they have taken the next step and started to buy and sell as business venture. These hobbyists have usually received countless shipments themselves, and yet the thought of bagging up and shipping out their fish can be intimidating at the least. I've been asked by hobbyists how to go about this, so I decided to put it into an article. The experiences and suggestions in this article are based strictly on my personal experiences. They are not meant to be a definitive guide...use them at your own risk.

Before you get started, you'll need basic supplies:


Bags...an appropriate size bag is needed. Don't skimp on the quality...or thickness....buy the thickest you can find. Be sure they are aquarium grade. Breather bags can be used for small fish with fins that are not too pointy. For fish like discus and angels, 3 and 4 mil bags are best, and can be doubled or tripled for very large fish. It's also a good idea to put a layer of newsprint between two layers of bags. This helps keep the heat in, and helps guard against punctures. Some sellers are very skilled and have a method down where they can ship multiple fish per bag. I prefer to place one fish per bag and I suggest novices start that way as well. I like to size the bag to be about 1-2 inches bigger than the fish. Bags should be twisted and sealed shut after the addition of oxygen. You can use elastic bands, special banding machines or even tape. The importance of a tight twisting and tying can't be downplayed here...you need to keep the oxygen in and the water in if the box is overturned.
Oxygen...depending on the size of the fish you are shipping you may need oxygen. That's not like what many local fish shops do, where they blow into the bag or try to catch a bagful of air from ambient air around them. It means using “oxygen” from a tank. This is the intimidating part for many. The most economical way to do this is to search the classifieds for an oxygen tank used in welding. These come in many sizes...choose what's right for you. Because it's a compressed gas, they last awhile unless you are shipping a lot. I lease the tank from a welding supply house for about $80 a year. Refills are about $10 out here in CT. You can actually buy them used or new. You'll then need a regulator to control the flow of oxygen. I bought mine for $50-65 from the welding supply house and they threw in a dispensing hose. Some may have access to medicinal oxygen. If so, that can be used too.
Boxes...You'll need a styrofoam insulated shipping box and cardboard outer box. You probably have received many over the years. Stock pile a bunch if you think you ever may ship. You can also buy these online through many suppliers. Another option is to make one yourself. You can buy styrofoam at stores like Home Depot and Lowes and cut it to fit a cardboard box. Size here does matter! Make the box fit the number of bags you will ship. Too much air space and too much wiggle room is not good, as the bags can fall over and puncture easier. They also hold heat better when packed closer together. Another reason to fit the box to the shipment is many shipping companies will ship based on dimensions as well as weight...bigger boxes may cost more.
Water.. You need water of course, but how much? Most hobbyists will put too much water in the bag, which can harm the fish and cost you a fortune to ship. I say it will harm the fish because what they need is NOT a ton of airless water. They need well oxygenated water that will keep them alive in transit.. My general rule is 1/3 water (provided that the 1/3 water also covers the fish by about an inch or so) and 2/3 shipping oxygen. You could use tank water, but I prefer to use fresh aged and aerated water because there is no bacteria or organics in it. Many people will also use a chemical aid, like Bag Buddies. Use these at your own risk. Many feel they are beneficial, and many do not use them. Shipping aids can also be tranquilizers, which I don't use here, and fall outside the realm of the beginner shipper's needs.
The net...Do yourself a favor and pitch the abrasive nylon nets. Many online stores sell very soft professional nets that allow you to handle the fish gently. This is important, as you do not want to overly damage the slime coat and fins of the fish. Damaged areas will be more prone to bacterial infections and shipping burns.
The fish... A fish excretes ammonia into the water. The more food it has eaten, the more waste it will generate in the bag, which can really foul the water while the fish is in transit. A general rule is to fast the fish at least a day (2 days is even better) before shipping. They'll travel better on an empty stomach and the water will stay cleaner.
Heat packs...Depending on the fish species and the time of year, heat packs may be needed. These are available in 12, 24 and 36 hours and work off a reaction with oxygen. Many shippers will put a small hole in their styrofoam box and cardboard, and place the heat pack inside the styrofoam over the hole to let air get in. Many others do not . In either case, the heat packs are taped by their edges to the inside sides and/or top of the box. Although heat rises, do not put them on the box bottoms, as water may leak and soak them.
Bag 'em.. box 'em...ship 'em....How to ship. Depending on where you are and how much shipping you plan on doing, you have several options. A frequent shipper may use the airport, but security these days often requires that you pre-register and get approved as a known shipper. The casual shipper can use the US Post Office, Fedex, UPS and DHL, which are all viable options. Choose what works best for you and your destination. I've used them all at one time or another. Most of the time, I find Fedex to be reliable, yet expensive. Each of these shippers may have special requirements, so check with them. Even among Fedex users there have been many cases reported where Fedex let them ship with no issues, and others where the Customer Service front desk adamantly said they did not allow live fish to be shipped. When I first started, I registered with Fedex and they had me send them a box like I would use and put empty bags of water in it. They then did a drop test. I passed and became a registered shipper, though I have never been asked if I am by a Fedex employee when I dropped off fish. Many shippers I know have never done this and just ship.
Destinations...Check ahead of time to be sure the delivery is available in the time frame you want and keep it domestic. International is possible but there's a lot involved...not something I would recommend to a novice.
Payment...Shipping is expensive. Be sure that you fully understand the cost and your customer is good with it. Shipping can cost more than the fish! I personally like to ship to destinations like FEDEX, and have them hold for pickup. I then have the customer pay the shipping company direct to the shipping agent. Don't try to make money off the shipping. It's not worth it and since it's soexpensive, people will look at this number and check. There are also advantages to the “hold for pickup” method, as it can be cheaper, and there's less handling by delivery personnel, resulting in less exposure to the elements.



Okay, so you've got the basics...now its time to ship. Here's my example scenario for a domestic shipment in the USA:

Joe Smith buys 6 each of 2.5-3 “ fish from me. He pays me in advance for the fish. We set a date for delivery. He wants to receive the fish on his day off, which is Wednesday. On Monday, I make sure I have all my supplies, and I fast the fish. No food at all and lots of clean water. I check over the fish to be sure they all look good and healthy. On Tuesday, I give them no food and in the afternoon I make up the bags. I like using 3 mil bags, tripled, with a sheet of newspaper between. I could probably get away with 2 bags, but these happen to be high fin Discus and I don't want a leaky bag. I open my heat packs and add them to the styrofoam box's sides. It's winter, so I use a couple of packs and I like to punch one small hole of about 1/2” behind the pack. I then line the box with a garbage bag because these days wet boxes may get pulled by shippers as a possible threat...and you are responsible if your cargo damages others. A box liner (the garbage bag) prevents this. Next, I get my bags. I have chosen 4“ bags for these 2.5-3” fish. I fill the bag to about 1-2” inches over the back of the fish with water, and then dispense oxygen into the bag, trying for that 1/3 water to 2/3 oxygen ratio. Then, I tightly twist the bag shut and fold it over and fasten it tightly with an elastic (think back to all those bags of fish you have received). I place the six bags into the garbage bag, tie that bag, and then take up any space between the bag and the box with crumpled newsprint or bubble wrap. Tape the stryofoam box shut, and tape the cardboard box shut. Drop the box off at the shipping business and fill out the appropriate shipping ticket. Ship for next day service After I get home, I contact the customer and give them tracking information. From that point on, it's out of my hands.

As I wrote earlier, this information is what I do and based on my experiences. I am not advising anyone to follow it and anything here should be taken with a grain of salt and used at your own risk.

Copyright 2010
Al Sabetta

Sited:
SimplyDiscus. com
An article written by the owner Al Sabetta.

[MadMatt]

The Nitrogen Cycle

In an aquarium, there are waste products given off by the fish, or by uneaten food or other organics such as plant decay. All contain Nitrogen. Fish give off waste products, including ammonia through the gills. Uneaten food and solid wastes are broken down into ammonia by fungi and many bacteria that we refer to as heterotrophic bacteria.
The ammonia can be in two forms. Toxic (to the fish) ammonia is in the form of NH3 and occurs when the ph is greater than 7.0. Nontoxic ammonia is NH4 and occurs when the ph is below 7.0. Ammonia is very toxic to fish.
Ammonia is broken down into “Nitrites” (NO2) by special bacteria called “Nitrosomonas” bacteria.
Then the Nitrites are broken down into “Nitrates” (NO3) by another special bacterium called “Nitrobacter bacteria”. Nitrates are not harmful to fish unless they become high. The most effective way to keep nitrates low is through water changes.
In a new aquarium very little of the nitrosomonas or nitrobacter bacteria are present, and need time to reproduce to sufficient levels to breakdown their respective nitrogen compounds. The bacteria attach to surfaces in the aquarium such as gravel (if you have it) or the material in the filter, such as sponges that have a large surface area for the bacteria to attach to.
Ammonia levels can start to stress the fish at levels of more than .3 mg/l depending on the ph and the temperature of the water. (Untergasser 1989) To minimize the stress the ph level can be kept below 7.0 and /or water changes can be used to keep the ammonia level below .3 mg/l. Usually the easiest approach is to do water changes. High levels of ammonia may show up on the fish as hemorrhages on the gills. The gills may appear “lilac” in color. (Untergasser 1989)
Nitrite in the water is absorbed by the blood of the fish. This reduces the bloods ability to transport oxygen to the fish’s body. Continuous exposure to nitrite can lead to “brown blood disease”, where the hemoglobin in the blood is bound to nitrite and the fish suffocates from lack of oxygen. Non iodized salt can be added to the water at 2 tbsp/10 gallons water, to help the fish cope with nitrite. Water changes are one of the best ways to cope with high nitrite levels.
When ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero, we refer to the aquarium as being “cycled”. This is having enough of the proper bacteria in the aquarium to convert the organics into nitrate. This usually takes from 4 to 6 weeks. Speeding up the cycle can be achieved through addition of gravel or filter media from an already cycled aquarium or by the use of *bacteria products sold at a pet shop.
Sources
Handbook of Fish Diseases by Dieter Untergasser, TFH Publications, Inc 1989

Maintaining a Healthy Aquarium by Dr. Neville Carrington, Salamander Books 1985

Internet resources


faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html
This site has a good chart on cycling time and effects of ph and temp on ammonia toxicity.



hth
Ardan
Member on Simplydiscus. com

[gabor129]

Lots of good info there Matt! Thanks for the resources!

[MadMatt]

As I find more articles, I will continue to post, education in this hobby is the key to success. I think it will help alot of new members.

[MadMatt]

Water Alert in Spring

Spring is approaching in the Northern Hemisphere.

Please monitor your water for water changes closely!!!

Snow melts, rains come. This means there will be more turbidity(dirt) in streams, rivers, lakes and reservoirs. The water supply companies will add more chlorine and chloramine (chlorine + ammonia). This may also mean a change in softness and KH due to the dilution of the minerals in the water or changes in ph due to runoff.
It may also mean a drop in KH (carbonate hardness), this can cause unstable ph.
It may also cause a sudden change in the ph.

Test your water change water for ammonia after using a dechlor agent to see if there is chloramine or if you already have chloramine, this will tell you if there has been an increase if the ammonia levels are higher than normal.
Test the ph in your water often to determine if it has changed.

Test the KH to see if it is stable. If it gets below 2, your ph may drop.

Some people have already had this problem (not just one isolated incident)
We have seen this problem in years past at this time of year.
Good equipment is helpful.
I use a Hanna ph tester. operates on batteries, works well and is fast.
I also use a Prime tds meter to monitor a change in mineral content.
I use a test kit for KH periodically, but my KH is always high, so I don't test it often. IF YOUR KH is borderline or LOW, you need to test it more often.

Remember too, that construction season is near and water main repairs or replacing may take place near you and they will add more chemicals to the water to make sure bacteria doesn't grow in it and keep it safe to drink. This may not be good for your fish. Water mains shift as the ground thaws and warms, this causes breaks and needs for repairs.


hth
Ardan
(Article on SimplyDiscus.com)

[MadMatt]

FISHLESS CYCLE

Advantages of the fishless cycle:
The advantages of this process over the traditional method of cycling a tank using a few small, hardy fish to get the bacterial colonies up and running all result from "front-end loading" the tank. The amount of ammonia added is far above that generated by a reasonable number of cycling fish, resulting in faster growth of the bacterial colonies, and larger colonies when you're finished. In practical terms, this means that your tank cycles faster (reports of anywhere from 10 days to 3 weeks, depending on the fish tank... compared to average of 4-6 weeks for traditionally cycled tanks), and that you can fully stock a tank when the cycle is complete. This latter point is of particular interest to keepers of african cichlids or other aggressive fish. If these fish are all added together as juveniles, they're much more tolerant of each other than if they're added in small groups after the first fish have established their territories. Of course, another big advantage is that no fish are subjected to high ammonia or nitrite concentrations, eliminating mortalities and ammonia/nitrite related illnesses which frequently occur in new tanks.


Alternative Recipe:
While the original recipe works quite well (4-5 drops NH3 / 10 gal / day until nitrite peaks, then reduce to 2-3 drops / 10 gal / day), it does NOT take into account varying concentrations of ammonia that are available. ACS grade ammonia, which I was using, is ~28% NH3, while most household cleaner grades vary from 4-10%, a fairly wide variation in concentration. Bottles that have been left open for long periods of time will be lower in concentration, as the NH3 gas escapes back into the atmosphere. With that in mind, I'd like to propose a different recipe, which was suggested by D_Man and others (thanks!): Add ammonia to the tank initially to obtain a reading on your ammonia kit of ~5 ppm. Record the amount of ammonia that this took, then add that amount daily until the nitrite spikes. Once the nitrite is visible, cut back the daily dose of ammonia to ½ the original volume. One advantage of this method is that the ammonia spike occurs immediately... when adding 4-5 drops/10 gal/day, it could take 4-5 days before the ammonia reaches the same levels. This should result in an acceleration of the entire process, though by how much (on average) remains to be seen.


Sources of Bacteria:
While it is probable that the bacteria required for the conversion of ammonia and nitrite to nitrate exist at very low levels in most uncycled tanks, it greatly accelerates the process to inoculate the tank with a large dose of healthy bacteria to get things started. Good sources of beneficial bacteria are ranked from best to least:

1) Filter material (floss, sponge, biowheel, etc.) from an established, disease free tank.
2) Live Plants (preferrably potted, leave the rockwool on until cycling is finished). Crypts or amazon swords are good choices, and not too demanding.
3) Gravel from an established, disease free tank. (Many lfs will give this away if asked nicely)
4) Other ornaments (driftwood, rocks, etc.) from an established tank.
5) Squeezings from a filter sponge (any lfs should be willing to do this...)

There are also a number of commercial bacterial supplements (Cycle, Stress-Zyme, etc.) available. IMHO, without getting on a soapbox, these have very little to no effect, and are best left on the shelf. If you want to try it, go ahead, but I believe that any of the above options will be more effective, and most if not all of them will be cheaper.


Sources of Ammonia:
The most difficult part of the fishless cycling procedure, according to many postings on the message boards, involves finding a good source of Ammonia. Ammonia used should be free of surfactants, perfumes, and colourants. Unfortunately, not everyone has access to ACS grade ammonium hydroxide. Always read the ingredients on the bottle. The best sources for Pure or Clear Ammonia are discount grocery stores or hardware stores. Often, the no-name brand is the stuff you're looking for. Some other people have reported success with the following brand names of ammonia: Top Crest or Whirl Clear Ammonia. To paraphrase RTR: If it doesn't list the ingredients, or say Clear Ammonia (or Pure Ammonia or 100% Ammonia, or Pure Ammonium Hydroxide), then leave it on the shelf and look elsewhere. Shake the bottle if you're not sure about it... ammonia with surfactants will foam, while good ammonia will not.

Water Changes and Ammonia Removing Chemicals:
A large water change (50-70%) should be done before adding any fish to the tank to lower nitrate levels, which can be a pain to bring down later. When changing the water during a fishless cycle, do NOT use dechlorinators that also sequester ammonia, such as the very popular Amquel. I have heard from at least one individual who did everything right with regards to cycling her tank using this method... the tank cycled quickly, then she did a water change, then added a reasonable fishload the following day with more than adequate filtration, and observed both an ammonia and a nitrite spike. The only explanation that I could think of after questioning her extensively led back to the Amquel. In a normal, established fish tank, the ammonia is being generated nearly constantly... in a fishless cycle however, the ammonia is added as a daily dose... IMO, it's concievable (though not really provable unless a lot more people experienced identical problems) that the Amquel temporarily deprived the bacteria of its food source, causing a minor die-back in the colony at the worst possible time... right before adding her fish. To be on the safe side, use a simple chlorine/chloriamine remover which does not affect your ammonia levels.

By similar logic, any other ammonia removing chemicals (eg. Ammo-lock) or resins (Amrid) should also be avoided while cycling... they will affect the cycle, extending it's duration or otherwise adversely affecting the bacterial colonies.


Too Much Ammonia?:
Is it possible to add too much ammonia to the tank (generally several times the amounts suggested in either recipe), as some individuals discovered by mistake (thanks Boozap). What happens in this case is that the ammonia will spike very far off the chart then the nitrite will spike as well (also way off the chart), and it will continue to spike for a very long time. Why? There are a couple of possibilities... the first is that the filter media and surfaces in the tank or oxygen levels are simply insufficient to grow and maintain a bacterial colony massive enough to convert all of the ammonia and all of the nitrite to nitrates. Another likely possibility is that the ammonia levels are high enough to inhibit growth (through a biofeedback mechanism) of the bacteria rather than promoting it. The solution is quite simple, however. If you realize that you've added way too much ammonia simply do a water change, or if necessary a series of water changes to bring the ammonia and/or nitrite levels back into the readable range on your test kit. Then proceed as normal with daily additions of ammonia until the tank is cycled.


Other Uses:
Fishless cycling is also very applicable to hospital/quarantine or fry growout tanks... when not in use, a maintenance dose of ammonia (eg. 2-3 drops/10 gallons) can be added daily to keep the tank cycled and ready for new fish indefinitely. Simply stop the addition the day before you want to buy your fish, take ammonia and nitrite tests to be certain that the levels are still zero, and do a water change to reduce nitrates.


Future of Fishless Cycling:
The future of this method is up to those of you out there that have tried this and like the method. If you do, please continue to promote it, whether on the internet, at your lfs, or at fish club meetings. Feel free to print off this or the original article for education purposes; the more people that know about this method the better. I'd be very happy if lfs caught on to this idea as have fishkeepers on the internet, and recommended it to newbies as a safer, cheaper way to do things. IMO, the number of people that didn't get frustrated in the early stages and thus continued with fishkeeping would make it worth their while.
(Article SimplyDiscus)

[MadMatt]

Great article about fish diseases:

[MadMatt]

Driftwood Treatments
by: Ralph Cote


Found the perfect piece of driftwood? Now what? Here are various methods of prepping that piece of wood before you put it in your tank.

Typically, driftwood that is purchased doesn't need any treatment. It is likely germ-free and will sink in a day or two. If not, you can also apply the appropriate treatment to your local fish store or internet purchase.

If the water you found it in is not polluted (if it is, leave it there or use at your own risk), how can you make it harmless to the fish in your aquarium? It probably doesn't need anything done to it, unless you live in the tropics. Most cold water organisms don't transfer well to a heated discus tank. And parasites are almost always very species specific (a trout tapeworm would be harmless to a discus). The same holds true for algae spores, cold water algae won't make it in an aquarium. But the reality is that we all feel much better cleaning up the driftwood before it goes in the tank, so here are a few suggestions (a combination of the various choices is also an option).

If you can, boil it. Nothing living can survive boiling water. Boil it for 10 to 15 minutes. It also takes out much of the tannins, so if you don't like the tea-colored water, this is perfect. It will also make the wood sink faster.

Every piece that I have found is too big for any pot that I have. The alternative to boiling is to put the wood in your bathtub (or outside) and pour boiling water on the wood. Be sure to get both sides of the wood and focus on any crevices.

A less time-consuming method is to spray the driftwood with a bleach solution. A 10% bleach-to-water solution will kill anything on the wood. It is very important to rinse the wood thoroughly after the bleach treatment until it doesn't smell like bleach anymore.

I've heard of people using pressure sprayers, like at a car wash. Don't use the soap cycle though. The heat and water force will remove most of the possible problems, and possibly much of the wood if it is too soft (it probably shouldn't be used anyway if it is that soft).

A somewhat less reliable method is to just leave the driftwood in the sun for a week or two. Just drying it out will kill most of the living organisms. I've heard that professional driftwood suppliers soak the wood in shallow tubs in the sun. This helps the rid the wood of bad stuff as well as speeding up the sinking process.

Stay away from any freshly cut wood, the sap and other unknown substances seep out into the water making a real mess (I know because I tried it once). It is a whitish or clear looking goo, it may not be harmful but who needs it?

Driftwood not sinking? You get a feel for about how long it will take the wood to sink by holding it, it is based on the density of the wood and the quick sinker just feels much heavier for its size. There are several ways to speed up the process though. As mentioned before, boiling will make it go faster. Soaking in deeper water also helps (such as the bottom of a water barrel). The water pressure speeds up the saturation of the wood. A third possibility, for the truly impatient, is to weigh it down in the aquarium. You can use gravel along the sides, or a temporary rock on top of it. I use driftwood that hangs from crosspieces (can be wood or plastic strips) on the top of the tank. A weight on the crosspiece, such as the light fixture, keeps the driftwood in place.

Some people don't like the brown tinged water that you get sometimes from having wood in the aquarium. Generally it doesn't last more than a month or two without you doing anything special. Water changes or carbon filtering will reduce the coloring of the water. Boiling the wood should speed the removal up. Others soak the wood before using it in the aquarium. I like the brown color though and I think the fish do, too.

It sounds like a lot of trouble but if you think back to the most memorable tank you've ever seen, most likely it was designed around a special piece of driftwood.