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Post by gabor129 on Aug 13, 2018 19:58:38 GMT -5
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Post by guppyguy on Aug 14, 2018 21:25:51 GMT -5
haha yes your trying this method. I also found this amazing and was going to try this myself. I am very interested to see your results. That video was very inspiring. Where did you get your C02 from ?
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Post by lesfromlakeshore on Oct 5, 2018 7:53:09 GMT -5
Hey Gabe , do you have any before and after pictures ?
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 5, 2018 15:04:18 GMT -5
I'll take some pictures today when the lights come on!
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 6, 2018 20:55:40 GMT -5
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 6, 2018 21:00:43 GMT -5
Going to try to do a before and after pictures! Not sure it will work! Before After Before After
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 6, 2018 21:08:24 GMT -5
From this tank I took out a bunch of plants, and also stripped some leaves off anubias rhizomes and sliced them to encourage new growth! Before After
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Post by Crazygar on Oct 7, 2018 7:11:06 GMT -5
BBA is generally caused by high organics in the water column. While dosing CO2 will go a long way to prevent this, you need to do a good filter, gravel cleaning as well. Removal of the infected leaves as well might be necessary as well.
The Old School CO2 does work, just watch your fish for signs of distress as often this might drastically change the pH quicker than the fish can adapt to the changing condition.
Those tanks looks impressive Gabe, I might have to pay another visit.
Gary
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 7, 2018 8:56:07 GMT -5
Thanks Gary for the info! With the BBA I already removed most of the effected leaves and treated the rest with H2O3 which worked for the most part.
With the dosing, I noticed that the CO2 observed quite fast into the water column and I was devising a plan how to check dissolved CO2 levels. Now I just have to do it a bit faster! I also cut the dosing to every 3 days instead of every second day! I wonder if a PH pen would work....
You are welcome any time to visit, as you know! After all this madness is all your fault!!!
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Post by Crazygar on Oct 7, 2018 9:08:36 GMT -5
Glad to be a bad influence on others, my work is done here. Yes, a pH Pen might work. The problem with the Old School Method is you can't control the output which is too bad, as it's a great method. I did Yeast Reactors before as well, and while I did gain moderate success with them, a more efficient longer method is always recommended. Finding the root of the problem is also paramount. After all, you can treat and resolve, but not knowing how it started in the first place might run a risk of a repeat performance. Gary
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Post by guppyguy on Oct 7, 2018 10:42:17 GMT -5
Looking good Gabe. The growth is obvious especially in the crypts. You keep this up and you will have crypt jungles soon.
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 7, 2018 13:35:45 GMT -5
So I decided to go ahead and start dosing with macro and micronutrients. As I am not into the whole high tech aquarium keeping, I had to find a way of doing it “low key”! As I was researching PMDD (poor mans dosing droops) method, I came across the EI (estimated index) method, which I like since it does not involve a lot of calculations, and conversions. I already have all the frets that I previously purchased from Northern Lights. And following the chart for EI I mixed the fertilizer! And marked the bags what volume of aquarium they are for! I swear officer it is aquarium fertilizer! 😂 Also I marked on the top of each fertilizer how much needed for what volume of tank! This way if I do not have previously prepared doses, I can just quickly add to the tank strait from the fertilizer container! And here is the estimated index chart I used!
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 7, 2018 13:45:05 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that with the EI method of fertilizing you have to do 50% water change weekly. Which serves to remove most of the unused fertilizer from the water column. The EI chart calls for 3x a week for both macros and micros, however I think my tanks do not have enough plants to utilize all the frets that would provide. For this reason I decided to do a twice a week dosing! Also to do 30% water changes, since I’m not adding quite as much fertilizer!
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 8, 2018 15:13:17 GMT -5
I’m trying something different! When I was playing with the idea of doing the CO2 this way, I talked to Les Jr. about the bottles emptying in 24 hours. He mentioned what if I keep the caps on and just drill a hole in the cap. This way effectively reducing the surface area the gas interacts with the water! I started out with a 1/4” hole to see how long it takes for it to dissolve. I’m shooting for 48 hours, so it may take several tries! Also I noticed some new growth on my anubias rhizome I cut. Noticeably not all scores results in new growth!
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Post by gabor129 on Oct 9, 2018 20:50:36 GMT -5
Well it has been 24 hours and the bottle is still 3/4 full of CO2. You can see where the little white float is inside the bottle. I’ll wait another 24 hours and if it is not empty by than, I’ll increase the hole in the cap from 1/4” to 3/8” Also I got some Vallisneria americana from Quebec, curtesy of Carl, and this tank evolved nice with the Val’s in the back!
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