Post by Crazygar on Feb 5, 2020 21:42:12 GMT -5
What is a Dwarf Cichlid?
When you hear this the first thing you should realize, that most fish that are referred to as Dwarf Cichlids, are any Cichlids that are under the 6" Mark. This can include African Rift Lake Species hailing from Lake Tanganyika, Lake Malawi, Lake Victoria along with other countries in Africa and species from South America. It's very rare you'll find a Central American Cichlid called a Dwarf. For the purpose of this article, Dwarf Cichlids I will be discussing will be of the South American Variety, and more so Apistogramma and Microgeophagus ramirezi. These two families are the most common in the Hobby and kept by many Aquarists of all levels.
Dwarf Cichlid or not to Dwarf Cichlid?
Like all fish, the genus Apistogramma and Microgeophagus ramirezi have specific requirements for their long term survival and health. Tank mates, tank size, decor, water temperature, water pH and water softness/hardness are just some of things to consider when purchasing a Dwarf Cichlid. Like all Cichlids, they are prone to behaviours that have made them famous and infamous in the Aquarium Hobby.
Just think of them as Big Cichlids in a Little Cichlid package. During breeding and guarding fry they can be holy terrors taking on fish much larger themselves and playing havoc with Bottom Dwelling fish such as Corydoras. At other times, they are wonderfully interesting fish with very curious minds. Always exploring, sampling and making "runs" (high speed bursts) from time to time.
Do you want to watch parental behaviour? Don't have the room for a huge tank but definitely want a Cichlid? Want something small but with BIG personality? Then Dwarf Cichlids might be for you!
The Tank
The first and foremost hurdle in keeping Dwarf Cichlids. For little fish, they have big territories, which means, that everyone needs space. Yes, I said, EVERYONE. Dwarf Cichlids do not fare well alone. They prefer to be kept in groups of 1 Male for every 2 Females. I always suggest 3 Females per Male to make it more closer to their natural habitat.Also for the sake of your other bottom dwelling fish.
I would say, for all purposes a 20 GAL LONG as a MINIMUM. Floor space is which Dwarf Cichlids require. They rarely venture into the water column and prefer darting in and out of stuff on the bottom to mid of the Aquarium. If you have Dwarf Cichlids going to the surface, something is wrong.
Tank depth is not all that important as floor space at the bottom. I keep Dwarf Cichlids in shallow, squat tanks. I used to keep them in a 70 GAL Custom is 48 X 18 X 18. Which suits Dwarf Cichlids on a large scale! A small tank, anything under 20 GAL LONG is a death sentence and should be avoided if you plan to keep these wonderful little fish.
The Decor
What's a tank without something in it, pretty darn boring not only for your fish, but for you. Some Dwarf Cichlids prefer plants while others prefer leaf litter and no plants. Your research should tell you what you need to place in there for your Dwarf Cichlid. Also remember their breeding habits, there are Open Spawners that lay eggs on a flat rock and protect that rock while others are cave brooders in which bottom of Driftwood with natural holes or clay pots with holes notched in are more suited to their breeding method. Once again -- research.
Substrate can be sand, Flourite, Eco-Complete or anything that is non-toxic, non-abrasive according to the species you are keeping.
All Dwarf Cichlids need visual markers for territory and to keep others out of their line of sight. This is where Driftwood comes especially in handy, along with other things which I will explain later.
Dwarf Cichlids have complex minds and need obstacles, holes, things to swim over/under and explore. The more environmental enrichment you give them, the more of their true behavior will show. Once again, research! Since I am a purist, I'm not one for advocating plastic things or bubbling treasure chests, I hope, for the most part, that most of us reading this are far beyond that stage now.
The Water
This is where things get interesting. Since Dwarf Cichlids are so widespread in South America, there are no specific water parameters you should follow other than specs which I am providing below to set as a bench mark;
> Temperature: Between 75F and 84F. Avoid both this low and high mark and aim for 78F to 80F as a standard, once again, this is species dependant. Mikrogeophagus ramirezi much prefer warmer around the 80F to 84F mark.
> pH: Between 6.0 and 7.4 are your extremes on both side of the scale. 6.5 to 7.0 is where you want to aim for. Though I've kept Apistogramma inrindae at a pH of 5.5 without issue, in fact, they much prefered it. Remember, species dependent.
> Water Flow: Avoid, with all species, a raging torrent! Moderate water flow is much preferred as most Dwarf Cichlids come from small Streams, igrapes, flooded forest floors and along the banks of large rivers where water flow is non-existant or minimal.
> Water Depth: Avoid too deep of a tank. 55 GAL tanks are horrible tanks for Dwarf Cichlids (and for most other fish as well, but a few exceptions...) and try to keep to the not too tall tanks. I've caught Apistogramma in a water depth of no more than an inch under leaves on the banks of the Rio San Martin in Bolivia along with isolated pools and large ponds. They don't like deep, try to replicate that. 18" seems to be a good depth. In the wild, deep is where the big hungry fish are.
> Water Types: We have White Water, Black Water species. Black water species usually like a higher temperature and lower pH and very little water movement. White Water prefer a cooler temperature and high pH and more water movement. Avoid the extremes listed above. Research above all!
Tankmates
One of the most common question I hear on the TFH Forum (or any other Forum for that matter) is the whole "Who is safe and who isn't?" Below, I am going to give a small run down of the Good and the Bad. I am planning not to dive into detail but give a framework. Once again, research...
> Characins. Tetras, since they inhabit the same waters with Dwarf Cichlids, it's safe to assume they are a safe bet. Though if you are planning to breed, the larger, more semi-aggressive (most Tetras are semi-aggressive) ones are the ones to watch out for. Serpae, Emperor and a few of the larger ones will dive bomb fry/eggs and make breeding almost impossible but for keeping with Dwarf Cichlids no issue, just ensure the Dwarfs get their fair share of the food as most are aggressive eaters. Pencilfish are great choices for Dwarf Cichlid tanks. Avoid species such as Exodon paradus, as these belong in a species only tank.
> Other Dwarf Cichlids. I usually recommend keeping with the species though some people (like myself in the past) have had "Lonely Hearts" club, which is a tank full of random species, all Male or all Female. While I usually don't recommend it, it can be done, but ensure that the needs of the fish are meet or find a comfortable middle ground for all. As for the more aggressive species Crenicichla, in the wild, these are Apisto and Ram hunters. Not a good idea.
> Catfish. Corydoras, Otocinclus and anything that will not outgrow your tank or eat your Dwarf Cichlids. Most common Catfish kept with Dwarf Cichlids are Corydoras and Otocinclus. Yes, you can keep Plecos and other related species with Dwarf Cichlids. Remember that most Catfish are bottom fish so ensure loads of space and territories for everyone.
> Other Cichlids. Yes and No. Once again research comes into play. A large nasty Cichlid will surely make a meal of a Dwarf Cichlid. Keep to South American species that can handle the same water parameters and won't conflict with the Dwarf Cichlid territory wise and feeding wise. NEVER put in African Cichlids (this includes Kribs) in with South American Dwarf Cichlids. Incompatible water is just a tip of the iceberg on this mix.
> Labyrinth Fish. Yes and no. Different Country and some are quite nasty. The Betta and Gourami are ok to keep with Dwarf Cichlids as they inhabit the mid to top of the tank, not even bothering with the bottom of the tank. Avoid Ctenopoma and other "aggressive" species which includes Snakeheads and anything equally nasty.
Bottom Line, stick to South American fish that can tolerate the same water conditions as your Dwarf Cichlids to avoid loads of confusion work and unnecessary, untimely deaths. Also ensure larger, more aggressive fish are not a part of the scheme, as they will, most often, eat your Dwarf Cichlids.
Dwarf Cichlids inhabit the bottom levels of the tank, to ensure no conflicts arise with other Bottom Dwellers, loads of space and room for each fish to stay out of each other's way and a place for them to run to if they need.
Being a purist, I never mix fish from different parts of the world in with my Dwarf Cichlids and keep to the same continent -- South America.
Dithers
This part is very important. In the wild Dwarf Cichlids use other fish for visual clues when it's safe to roam around and when they need to retreat. Fish on the Mid to Top level are usually the best for this. I've used Pencilfish as the best dithers around. They are bold, but when threatened, Pencils school up and bolt. This gives your Dwarf Cichlid a clue that something is wrong and they should hide. Also, on the other note, when the school of fish are out swimming around, this gives the Dwarf Cichlid the "all clear" sign and they will be less elusive.
This is a big part of all Dwarf Cichlid behaviour. Dithers are a BIG PART of the Dwarf Cichlid world and are required to see the behaviour at their fullest.
Setups
What can I do to make their environment more "complex"? That's truly easy. First, find out if they are a Blackwater or White Water Dwarf. Black Water Dwarf Cichlids inhabit, dark, tannin stained waters. Substrate is usually sand, and very little rocks.
Leaf Litter covers that sand and usually twigs, branches also make up a part of the environment. The water is mostly a dark Tea to Coffee color. pH usually low and temperature high. Moderate to little water flow. People say, it's not pleasant to look at it, but this is one of my favorite all time setups. I've done Blackwater for Dicrossus filamentosus and it was a wonderful scene. Wood, sand, leaves and extremely colored up fish! I have also done this for my Apistogramma irindae and had the pH down to 5.5 and their colors really burst through!
Some habitats are flooded forest floors, where the pH can even drop lower due to large amounts of rotting plants. White Water Dwarf Cichlids inhabit, clearer, cooler higher pH waters. Often these Dwarf Cichlids are also accustomed to a bit more water flow but once again, avoid the raging torrent of death.
Dwarf Cichlids make interesting and wonderful inhabitants for planted tanks. Just note, if you keep small Shrimp, as most of us do, they will pick them off. Usually what I do is ensure a massive colony exists before introducing your Dwarf Cichlids. This also gives them something to hunt and eat that is natural.The more colorful man-made morphs (A.agassizi Fire Red) really shine in planted tank setups.
They can be kept in General Aquarium setups just ensuring that their basic needs of Temperature, pH, and environment can be met.
Whatever the situation, give your Dwarf Cichlid a bolt hole, things to explore, things to swim through and under. The more environmental enrichments you provide, the more true behaviors you will see.
For "cave brooding" I always provide natural caves in Driftwood to setup shop, while the open spawners I provide a few flat rocks, somewhat in the open to provide as possible locations. Always keep the breeding methods in mind, nothing is more annoying having to re-arrange an already established tank.
When introducing new Dwarf Cichlids, I usually re-arrange some of the decor to ensure that everyone has to work for new territories again, I learned this from African Cichlids. It works great for Dwarf Cichlids as well. Introducing a Dwarf Cichlid into a tank with established territories means it's going to be picked on from the moment it hits the water. Try to avoid this.
Common Species
Ok, for the most part, the most common species are the ones that we see again and again. Just a rough breakdown to get your started on your Dwarf Cichlid Quest;
Apistogramma agassizi (Lyre-Tail Dwarf Cichlid)
Generally inhabits the slower-moving tributaries, backwaters and creeks. Areas of fallen leaf litter and branches and these may contain water that is either black, white or clear water depending on location and time of year (dry or wet season).
Males are larger than the females, Females distinguished by lack of coloration and more yellow in appearance.
Provided with cover and things to explore, this species is not all that picky with regards to décor. Ceramic flowerpots, lengths of plastic piping and other artificial materials are ok additions but if you can provide natural caves within the Driftwood even better. The Aquarium should consist of a soft, sandy substrate with wood, roots and branches to form caves and natural nooks and crannies.
Sensitive to poor water quality, ensure weekly changes of 10-20% for long term survival. Many man-made morphs available, and sometimes Wild caught specimens are available.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, Cave Spawner.
Apistogramma borelli/borellii (Umbrella Dwarf Cichlid)
Generally inhabits creeks and tributaries. It would be safe to say, once again, more blackwater species, but this can also be dependant on time of year (dry or wet season). Areas of fallen leaf litter and branches.
Males are slightly larger than the females and have a more pronounced dorsal fin which comes to a point. Females are not as colorful as the Males and once again, have a tinge of yellow to their bodies.
This species is a substrate spawner and will dig "breeding pits" in the substrate to lay eggs and rear fry. Ensure you have open spots for this behavior. Branches, wood and roots are a part of the natural environment and should be a part of the Aquarium environment. Soft, sandy substrate due to breeding methods.
Sensitive to poor water quality, ensure weekly changes of 10-20% for long term survival. Apistogramma borelli "Opal" is a striking Man-Made morph with red on the face of the Fish.
Minimum tank size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, substrate spawner.
Apistogramma cacatuoides (Cockatoo dwarf cichlid)
One of the most popular Apistogramma in the hobby today. Ask anyone whom has kept a variety of Apistogramma and for sure, they'll have A.cacatuoides under their belt. While not a true blackwater species (more clear water), they do enjoy a bit of Peat in the water column. They fully enjoy plants and the cover they provide to be sure to add plants to the mix. All though not a South American plant, Apistogramma cacatuoides (and most Apistogramma in general) love Cryptocoryne species as refuges.
Males are much larger and colorful than their Female counterparts and have elaborate finnage as opposed to the Female.
This species is a cave spawner, so an overturned clay pot or natural caves made with Driftwood will ensure a proper breeding spot and environment for this Apistogramma.
A pretty tough Apistogramma but water quality will still determine long term survival in your Aquarium. Many nice Man-Made Morphs available in the hobby and occasion, wild specimens which are far different than their commercial counterparts.
Minimum tank size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, cave spawner.
Apistogramma panduro (Panda Apistogramma)
One of the more interesting of the Apistogramma. Males and Females are similar in size, and markings. Identified by the large "spot" near the caudual penducle (just before their tail). A.panduro are also lovers of the Blackwater areas so ensure the pH is reflective, but once again, great inhabitant for the planted tank. They are mildly aggressive for an Apistogramma. And are more of an "intermediate level" Apisto.
Males and Females are almost similar in size and markings, I've had difficulty sexing these but when the Female is in brooding dress, the difference is obvious.
This species is a cave spawner, so an overturned clay pot or natural caves made with Driftwood will ensure a proper breeding spot and environment for this Apistogramma.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, cave spawner.
Microgeophagus ramirezi (German Blue Ram)
A peaceful Dwarf Cichlid but not really recommended for Beginners. Hyper sensitive to water quality, so weekly water changes are a must. Males sport an elongated first 3 Dorsal Spines and have no blue sheen in their "black spot" on the side of their body. Females are more plump and have a pinkish coloration to their bellies. Also Females are a bit smaller but not by much. These are extremely common and loads of man made morphs available.
Have been found in waters ranging from 75F all the way up to 90F, though I would avoid the extremes, these are one of the few Dwarf Cichlids that can be kept in the warmer waters with Discus. Extremely colorful and extremely interesting, the Blue Ram is a mainstay in the hobby and will be for years to come.
This species is an open spawner, laying eggs on a flat rock in an open area and both parents will guard fry and eggs unlike most Apistogramma where it's generally a Female thing. Parents form a bond and all other Rams in the tank should be removed when a pair forms.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem. 1 Male to 3 Females. Once a pair forms, remove all other Rams.
Most Dwarf Cichlids prefer subdued lighting and some sort of cover. Try to provide this. With areas to bolt, they will be out more often. They make wonderful inhabitants for Planted Tanks and I always try at least a different species each time I get the chance. They are wonderful fish and very very addictive.
Breeding
All Dwarf Cichlids fall into one of these 3 Categories when it comes to breeding;
(a) Cave Spawner - Natural Caves or Clay Flower Pots. Access for Female Only to protect eggs/fry
(b) Open Spawner - Flat rock in a cleared part of the tank. Usually both Parents protect eggs/fry
(c) Substrate Spawner - Digs pits into the substrate to lay eggs. Usually both Parents protect eggs/fry.
As with everything, there is always exceptions to the rule and once again, this is used for guideline and framework and to give you an idea how if you want to start breeding Dwarf Cichlids. A dedicated Breeding Tank (20 GAL LONG, where have we seen that before?) would be the optimum solution if you are serious about breeding these, which I will discuss as well.
As I've stated many times already in this Primer, Floorspace. This is where it really comes in handy, not only for your Dwarf Cichlids but the other inhabitants of the tank during Breeding. Without it, there is going to be a lot of dead fish. If you are true about breeding, having no inhabitants in the tank is even better. Things can get dicey, remember, Big Cichlid in a Little Cichlid package.
Apistogramma in general have a unique Breeding Method which I would like to discuss first, exempting the German Blue Ram...
Super and Sub-Territory
For Apistogramma, this is the most evident method protection, especially in those species that are Cave Spawners. The Male Apistogramma, will patrol a section of the tank called the "Super Territory". This can be from 12" X 12" all the way up to almost the entire tank bottom. This is the border of all the sub territories...
Within the Super Territory, are the sub territories which are guarded by the Females and their "cave". Each sub territory can be 12" X 12" down to 6" X 6". So for 3 Female Apistogramma, each having a bit of space (usually about 2" between sub territory) you are looking at 24" of space for a sub territory and 26" for Super Territory at the minimum. See where floorspace comes into play?
Also, with smaller breeding setups, remove the Male once the fry appear, he runs a big risk of the Females literally scaring him out of the tank...
In a larger tank, you can maintain the Harem, and as long as the Male is enough space between himself and the Females, things will be fine. Bottom Dwelling fish such as Corydoras, might take a bit of a beating, but if the tank is large enough, they'll soon learn to stay away from the Super Territory and sub-territories. These areas will be defended well, and I've had Apistogramma chase of full grown Discus away from their area. They are tenacious little fish when breeding.
Some brooding Females will even go as far as "stealing" the fry from other broods for their own. While I have never personally witnessed it, I can imagine it must be a sight to see.
Also, sometimes, when purchasing fish, especially breeding harems, once on occasion (I've had this happen only once with Apistogramma gibbiceps) a "Sneaker Male" shows up on the scene. This is a less dominant Male, that takes on the Female appearance to ensure it won't get harassed by the dominant Male and has the ability of disguise to breed with the other Females without attracting attention from the dominant Male.
If you want to breed fish, I always suggest giving Apistogramma a whirl, it's a bit of work, but the end result is fascinating and once again, very addictive.
Cave Spawners
The most predominant method of breeding is the Cave Spawner. The Cave Spawner has the protection of a covered area in which eggs and fry are protected 99% of the time by the Female. For Caves, you can use PVC Piping with a small hole notched out so that only the Female can fit in and out, a Clay Pot once again with a hole notched out or arrange Driftwood or decor to simulate a cave. I prefer the driftwood method or you can put a piece of PVC piping in the Driftwood and mask it with the decor. The choice is up to you.
For Cave Spawners, the duty falls onto the Female (most of the time, there are instances where roles switch) to watch guard and protect eggs/fry. The Female becomes a bright Yellow and sports her brood dress with deep black markings. This area will be guarded aggressively from other fish and the Male.
Open Spawners
Another method used is the open spawner. This has a unique behavior associated with this as both the Male and Female take the responsibility for guarding and rearing eggs and fry. Usually the site is a flat rock, placed somewhere in the open of the tank so the parents can watch all angles. Mikrogeophagus ramirezi prefer this method of spawning. Also, most often with Open Spawners, once a pair has formed, remove all other Dwarf Cichlids from the tank and leave the bonded Male and Female to themselves. Once again, research will tell you what to do. This is just a framework to get you started.
With Open Spawners, DO NOT disturb the spawning site, or the bond will be broken and problems could arise.
Substrate Spawners
A few of the Dwarf Cichlids will apply this method of breeding. They will create spawning pits (some of the above examples will do this for their fry) to lay their eggs and protect. Once again, the Male and Female will both take guard and responsibility of guarding/rearing of eggs/fry. As usual, as the bonded Pair form, remove all other Dwarf Cichlids from the tank and DO NOT disturb the site.
Spawning triggers are different from each group, so as I say (beginning to sound like a broken record)... research. Each species and brood type has it's own set of triggers to ensure to motivate them into breeding. Also, pH and temperature also play a role in gender of fry. Research, boy, sure is a lot of that eh?
Dedicated Spawning/Rearing Tank
While Dwarf Cichlids can breed in the average community Aquarium, predation on the eggs/fry is much higher and final yield are generally much lower than the dedicated spawning tank. This, in itself is it's own entity and the rules mentioned throughout this article should come into play.
Most dedicated tanks have the following;
(1) The tank, which I always use and recommend 20 GAL LONGS for this endeavour. Short, long and squat. They are the perfect breeding tank for Harem breeding Apistogramma.
(2) Sponge Filter, which is fry safe and provides a host of infusoria for the newly hatched fry to nibble on, along with the parents.
(3) Heater, setting it to the required temperature is important. Research your species.
(4) pH, setting it to the required pH is important.
(5) (a) Clay Pot/PVC Pipe for Cave Spawning for EACH of the Females
(b) Flat Rock for Open spawners. Once a pair forms, remove all other non-paired fish.
(c) Sandy substrate for Substrate Spawners. Once a pair forms, remove all other non-paired fish.
(6) A substrate of sand is usually the best (not too deep, say 1") for the breeding tank.
(7) Located in a "quieter" part of your home. Which is good for the Dwarf Cichlids and the noise of the air pump running the Sponge Filter.
(8) NO TANKMATES, Dwarf Cichlids Only! It's an exclusive club.
(9) Ensure if you can snails and other pests are not a part of the setup.
In closing, I would like to say that these fish come with a warning. They are very addictive.
My first Dwarf Cichlid was Apistogramma gibbiceps, and since then, I've never looked back. I've got into the major Blackwater species such as Apistogramma iniridae along with Dicrossus filamentosus.
I've worked with; A.agassizii, A.cacatuoides, A.velifera, A.iniridae, A.gibbiceps, A.pertensis, A.Steel Blue, D.filamentosus, M.ramirezi and A.trifasciata.
I would recommend these fish to anyone wishing to have something unique, though they are hard to find, A.cacatuoides and A.agassizi seem to be the most common, by the end of August beginning of September we'll see more Apistogramma on the lists and shops as this is start of the collecting season for these fish.
Follow the guidelines, do your research and enjoy. Oh, these are not long lived fish, I've had one live for 3 close to 4 years but that seems to be the maximum extreme. It's life in the fast lane for these little fish and 2 years is more of the norm for these.
When you hear this the first thing you should realize, that most fish that are referred to as Dwarf Cichlids, are any Cichlids that are under the 6" Mark. This can include African Rift Lake Species hailing from Lake Tanganyika, Lake Malawi, Lake Victoria along with other countries in Africa and species from South America. It's very rare you'll find a Central American Cichlid called a Dwarf. For the purpose of this article, Dwarf Cichlids I will be discussing will be of the South American Variety, and more so Apistogramma and Microgeophagus ramirezi. These two families are the most common in the Hobby and kept by many Aquarists of all levels.
Dwarf Cichlid or not to Dwarf Cichlid?
Like all fish, the genus Apistogramma and Microgeophagus ramirezi have specific requirements for their long term survival and health. Tank mates, tank size, decor, water temperature, water pH and water softness/hardness are just some of things to consider when purchasing a Dwarf Cichlid. Like all Cichlids, they are prone to behaviours that have made them famous and infamous in the Aquarium Hobby.
Just think of them as Big Cichlids in a Little Cichlid package. During breeding and guarding fry they can be holy terrors taking on fish much larger themselves and playing havoc with Bottom Dwelling fish such as Corydoras. At other times, they are wonderfully interesting fish with very curious minds. Always exploring, sampling and making "runs" (high speed bursts) from time to time.
Do you want to watch parental behaviour? Don't have the room for a huge tank but definitely want a Cichlid? Want something small but with BIG personality? Then Dwarf Cichlids might be for you!
The Tank
The first and foremost hurdle in keeping Dwarf Cichlids. For little fish, they have big territories, which means, that everyone needs space. Yes, I said, EVERYONE. Dwarf Cichlids do not fare well alone. They prefer to be kept in groups of 1 Male for every 2 Females. I always suggest 3 Females per Male to make it more closer to their natural habitat.Also for the sake of your other bottom dwelling fish.
I would say, for all purposes a 20 GAL LONG as a MINIMUM. Floor space is which Dwarf Cichlids require. They rarely venture into the water column and prefer darting in and out of stuff on the bottom to mid of the Aquarium. If you have Dwarf Cichlids going to the surface, something is wrong.
Tank depth is not all that important as floor space at the bottom. I keep Dwarf Cichlids in shallow, squat tanks. I used to keep them in a 70 GAL Custom is 48 X 18 X 18. Which suits Dwarf Cichlids on a large scale! A small tank, anything under 20 GAL LONG is a death sentence and should be avoided if you plan to keep these wonderful little fish.
The Decor
What's a tank without something in it, pretty darn boring not only for your fish, but for you. Some Dwarf Cichlids prefer plants while others prefer leaf litter and no plants. Your research should tell you what you need to place in there for your Dwarf Cichlid. Also remember their breeding habits, there are Open Spawners that lay eggs on a flat rock and protect that rock while others are cave brooders in which bottom of Driftwood with natural holes or clay pots with holes notched in are more suited to their breeding method. Once again -- research.
Substrate can be sand, Flourite, Eco-Complete or anything that is non-toxic, non-abrasive according to the species you are keeping.
All Dwarf Cichlids need visual markers for territory and to keep others out of their line of sight. This is where Driftwood comes especially in handy, along with other things which I will explain later.
Dwarf Cichlids have complex minds and need obstacles, holes, things to swim over/under and explore. The more environmental enrichment you give them, the more of their true behavior will show. Once again, research! Since I am a purist, I'm not one for advocating plastic things or bubbling treasure chests, I hope, for the most part, that most of us reading this are far beyond that stage now.
The Water
This is where things get interesting. Since Dwarf Cichlids are so widespread in South America, there are no specific water parameters you should follow other than specs which I am providing below to set as a bench mark;
> Temperature: Between 75F and 84F. Avoid both this low and high mark and aim for 78F to 80F as a standard, once again, this is species dependant. Mikrogeophagus ramirezi much prefer warmer around the 80F to 84F mark.
> pH: Between 6.0 and 7.4 are your extremes on both side of the scale. 6.5 to 7.0 is where you want to aim for. Though I've kept Apistogramma inrindae at a pH of 5.5 without issue, in fact, they much prefered it. Remember, species dependent.
> Water Flow: Avoid, with all species, a raging torrent! Moderate water flow is much preferred as most Dwarf Cichlids come from small Streams, igrapes, flooded forest floors and along the banks of large rivers where water flow is non-existant or minimal.
> Water Depth: Avoid too deep of a tank. 55 GAL tanks are horrible tanks for Dwarf Cichlids (and for most other fish as well, but a few exceptions...) and try to keep to the not too tall tanks. I've caught Apistogramma in a water depth of no more than an inch under leaves on the banks of the Rio San Martin in Bolivia along with isolated pools and large ponds. They don't like deep, try to replicate that. 18" seems to be a good depth. In the wild, deep is where the big hungry fish are.
> Water Types: We have White Water, Black Water species. Black water species usually like a higher temperature and lower pH and very little water movement. White Water prefer a cooler temperature and high pH and more water movement. Avoid the extremes listed above. Research above all!
Tankmates
One of the most common question I hear on the TFH Forum (or any other Forum for that matter) is the whole "Who is safe and who isn't?" Below, I am going to give a small run down of the Good and the Bad. I am planning not to dive into detail but give a framework. Once again, research...
> Characins. Tetras, since they inhabit the same waters with Dwarf Cichlids, it's safe to assume they are a safe bet. Though if you are planning to breed, the larger, more semi-aggressive (most Tetras are semi-aggressive) ones are the ones to watch out for. Serpae, Emperor and a few of the larger ones will dive bomb fry/eggs and make breeding almost impossible but for keeping with Dwarf Cichlids no issue, just ensure the Dwarfs get their fair share of the food as most are aggressive eaters. Pencilfish are great choices for Dwarf Cichlid tanks. Avoid species such as Exodon paradus, as these belong in a species only tank.
> Other Dwarf Cichlids. I usually recommend keeping with the species though some people (like myself in the past) have had "Lonely Hearts" club, which is a tank full of random species, all Male or all Female. While I usually don't recommend it, it can be done, but ensure that the needs of the fish are meet or find a comfortable middle ground for all. As for the more aggressive species Crenicichla, in the wild, these are Apisto and Ram hunters. Not a good idea.
> Catfish. Corydoras, Otocinclus and anything that will not outgrow your tank or eat your Dwarf Cichlids. Most common Catfish kept with Dwarf Cichlids are Corydoras and Otocinclus. Yes, you can keep Plecos and other related species with Dwarf Cichlids. Remember that most Catfish are bottom fish so ensure loads of space and territories for everyone.
> Other Cichlids. Yes and No. Once again research comes into play. A large nasty Cichlid will surely make a meal of a Dwarf Cichlid. Keep to South American species that can handle the same water parameters and won't conflict with the Dwarf Cichlid territory wise and feeding wise. NEVER put in African Cichlids (this includes Kribs) in with South American Dwarf Cichlids. Incompatible water is just a tip of the iceberg on this mix.
> Labyrinth Fish. Yes and no. Different Country and some are quite nasty. The Betta and Gourami are ok to keep with Dwarf Cichlids as they inhabit the mid to top of the tank, not even bothering with the bottom of the tank. Avoid Ctenopoma and other "aggressive" species which includes Snakeheads and anything equally nasty.
Bottom Line, stick to South American fish that can tolerate the same water conditions as your Dwarf Cichlids to avoid loads of confusion work and unnecessary, untimely deaths. Also ensure larger, more aggressive fish are not a part of the scheme, as they will, most often, eat your Dwarf Cichlids.
Dwarf Cichlids inhabit the bottom levels of the tank, to ensure no conflicts arise with other Bottom Dwellers, loads of space and room for each fish to stay out of each other's way and a place for them to run to if they need.
Being a purist, I never mix fish from different parts of the world in with my Dwarf Cichlids and keep to the same continent -- South America.
Dithers
This part is very important. In the wild Dwarf Cichlids use other fish for visual clues when it's safe to roam around and when they need to retreat. Fish on the Mid to Top level are usually the best for this. I've used Pencilfish as the best dithers around. They are bold, but when threatened, Pencils school up and bolt. This gives your Dwarf Cichlid a clue that something is wrong and they should hide. Also, on the other note, when the school of fish are out swimming around, this gives the Dwarf Cichlid the "all clear" sign and they will be less elusive.
This is a big part of all Dwarf Cichlid behaviour. Dithers are a BIG PART of the Dwarf Cichlid world and are required to see the behaviour at their fullest.
Setups
What can I do to make their environment more "complex"? That's truly easy. First, find out if they are a Blackwater or White Water Dwarf. Black Water Dwarf Cichlids inhabit, dark, tannin stained waters. Substrate is usually sand, and very little rocks.
Leaf Litter covers that sand and usually twigs, branches also make up a part of the environment. The water is mostly a dark Tea to Coffee color. pH usually low and temperature high. Moderate to little water flow. People say, it's not pleasant to look at it, but this is one of my favorite all time setups. I've done Blackwater for Dicrossus filamentosus and it was a wonderful scene. Wood, sand, leaves and extremely colored up fish! I have also done this for my Apistogramma irindae and had the pH down to 5.5 and their colors really burst through!
Some habitats are flooded forest floors, where the pH can even drop lower due to large amounts of rotting plants. White Water Dwarf Cichlids inhabit, clearer, cooler higher pH waters. Often these Dwarf Cichlids are also accustomed to a bit more water flow but once again, avoid the raging torrent of death.
Dwarf Cichlids make interesting and wonderful inhabitants for planted tanks. Just note, if you keep small Shrimp, as most of us do, they will pick them off. Usually what I do is ensure a massive colony exists before introducing your Dwarf Cichlids. This also gives them something to hunt and eat that is natural.The more colorful man-made morphs (A.agassizi Fire Red) really shine in planted tank setups.
They can be kept in General Aquarium setups just ensuring that their basic needs of Temperature, pH, and environment can be met.
Whatever the situation, give your Dwarf Cichlid a bolt hole, things to explore, things to swim through and under. The more environmental enrichments you provide, the more true behaviors you will see.
For "cave brooding" I always provide natural caves in Driftwood to setup shop, while the open spawners I provide a few flat rocks, somewhat in the open to provide as possible locations. Always keep the breeding methods in mind, nothing is more annoying having to re-arrange an already established tank.
When introducing new Dwarf Cichlids, I usually re-arrange some of the decor to ensure that everyone has to work for new territories again, I learned this from African Cichlids. It works great for Dwarf Cichlids as well. Introducing a Dwarf Cichlid into a tank with established territories means it's going to be picked on from the moment it hits the water. Try to avoid this.
Common Species
Ok, for the most part, the most common species are the ones that we see again and again. Just a rough breakdown to get your started on your Dwarf Cichlid Quest;
Apistogramma agassizi (Lyre-Tail Dwarf Cichlid)
Generally inhabits the slower-moving tributaries, backwaters and creeks. Areas of fallen leaf litter and branches and these may contain water that is either black, white or clear water depending on location and time of year (dry or wet season).
Males are larger than the females, Females distinguished by lack of coloration and more yellow in appearance.
Provided with cover and things to explore, this species is not all that picky with regards to décor. Ceramic flowerpots, lengths of plastic piping and other artificial materials are ok additions but if you can provide natural caves within the Driftwood even better. The Aquarium should consist of a soft, sandy substrate with wood, roots and branches to form caves and natural nooks and crannies.
Sensitive to poor water quality, ensure weekly changes of 10-20% for long term survival. Many man-made morphs available, and sometimes Wild caught specimens are available.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, Cave Spawner.
Apistogramma borelli/borellii (Umbrella Dwarf Cichlid)
Generally inhabits creeks and tributaries. It would be safe to say, once again, more blackwater species, but this can also be dependant on time of year (dry or wet season). Areas of fallen leaf litter and branches.
Males are slightly larger than the females and have a more pronounced dorsal fin which comes to a point. Females are not as colorful as the Males and once again, have a tinge of yellow to their bodies.
This species is a substrate spawner and will dig "breeding pits" in the substrate to lay eggs and rear fry. Ensure you have open spots for this behavior. Branches, wood and roots are a part of the natural environment and should be a part of the Aquarium environment. Soft, sandy substrate due to breeding methods.
Sensitive to poor water quality, ensure weekly changes of 10-20% for long term survival. Apistogramma borelli "Opal" is a striking Man-Made morph with red on the face of the Fish.
Minimum tank size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, substrate spawner.
Apistogramma cacatuoides (Cockatoo dwarf cichlid)
One of the most popular Apistogramma in the hobby today. Ask anyone whom has kept a variety of Apistogramma and for sure, they'll have A.cacatuoides under their belt. While not a true blackwater species (more clear water), they do enjoy a bit of Peat in the water column. They fully enjoy plants and the cover they provide to be sure to add plants to the mix. All though not a South American plant, Apistogramma cacatuoides (and most Apistogramma in general) love Cryptocoryne species as refuges.
Males are much larger and colorful than their Female counterparts and have elaborate finnage as opposed to the Female.
This species is a cave spawner, so an overturned clay pot or natural caves made with Driftwood will ensure a proper breeding spot and environment for this Apistogramma.
A pretty tough Apistogramma but water quality will still determine long term survival in your Aquarium. Many nice Man-Made Morphs available in the hobby and occasion, wild specimens which are far different than their commercial counterparts.
Minimum tank size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, cave spawner.
Apistogramma panduro (Panda Apistogramma)
One of the more interesting of the Apistogramma. Males and Females are similar in size, and markings. Identified by the large "spot" near the caudual penducle (just before their tail). A.panduro are also lovers of the Blackwater areas so ensure the pH is reflective, but once again, great inhabitant for the planted tank. They are mildly aggressive for an Apistogramma. And are more of an "intermediate level" Apisto.
Males and Females are almost similar in size and markings, I've had difficulty sexing these but when the Female is in brooding dress, the difference is obvious.
This species is a cave spawner, so an overturned clay pot or natural caves made with Driftwood will ensure a proper breeding spot and environment for this Apistogramma.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem, 1 Male to 3 Females, cave spawner.
Microgeophagus ramirezi (German Blue Ram)
A peaceful Dwarf Cichlid but not really recommended for Beginners. Hyper sensitive to water quality, so weekly water changes are a must. Males sport an elongated first 3 Dorsal Spines and have no blue sheen in their "black spot" on the side of their body. Females are more plump and have a pinkish coloration to their bellies. Also Females are a bit smaller but not by much. These are extremely common and loads of man made morphs available.
Have been found in waters ranging from 75F all the way up to 90F, though I would avoid the extremes, these are one of the few Dwarf Cichlids that can be kept in the warmer waters with Discus. Extremely colorful and extremely interesting, the Blue Ram is a mainstay in the hobby and will be for years to come.
This species is an open spawner, laying eggs on a flat rock in an open area and both parents will guard fry and eggs unlike most Apistogramma where it's generally a Female thing. Parents form a bond and all other Rams in the tank should be removed when a pair forms.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 GAL LONG
Breeding: Harem. 1 Male to 3 Females. Once a pair forms, remove all other Rams.
Most Dwarf Cichlids prefer subdued lighting and some sort of cover. Try to provide this. With areas to bolt, they will be out more often. They make wonderful inhabitants for Planted Tanks and I always try at least a different species each time I get the chance. They are wonderful fish and very very addictive.
Breeding
All Dwarf Cichlids fall into one of these 3 Categories when it comes to breeding;
(a) Cave Spawner - Natural Caves or Clay Flower Pots. Access for Female Only to protect eggs/fry
(b) Open Spawner - Flat rock in a cleared part of the tank. Usually both Parents protect eggs/fry
(c) Substrate Spawner - Digs pits into the substrate to lay eggs. Usually both Parents protect eggs/fry.
As with everything, there is always exceptions to the rule and once again, this is used for guideline and framework and to give you an idea how if you want to start breeding Dwarf Cichlids. A dedicated Breeding Tank (20 GAL LONG, where have we seen that before?) would be the optimum solution if you are serious about breeding these, which I will discuss as well.
As I've stated many times already in this Primer, Floorspace. This is where it really comes in handy, not only for your Dwarf Cichlids but the other inhabitants of the tank during Breeding. Without it, there is going to be a lot of dead fish. If you are true about breeding, having no inhabitants in the tank is even better. Things can get dicey, remember, Big Cichlid in a Little Cichlid package.
Apistogramma in general have a unique Breeding Method which I would like to discuss first, exempting the German Blue Ram...
Super and Sub-Territory
For Apistogramma, this is the most evident method protection, especially in those species that are Cave Spawners. The Male Apistogramma, will patrol a section of the tank called the "Super Territory". This can be from 12" X 12" all the way up to almost the entire tank bottom. This is the border of all the sub territories...
Within the Super Territory, are the sub territories which are guarded by the Females and their "cave". Each sub territory can be 12" X 12" down to 6" X 6". So for 3 Female Apistogramma, each having a bit of space (usually about 2" between sub territory) you are looking at 24" of space for a sub territory and 26" for Super Territory at the minimum. See where floorspace comes into play?
Also, with smaller breeding setups, remove the Male once the fry appear, he runs a big risk of the Females literally scaring him out of the tank...
In a larger tank, you can maintain the Harem, and as long as the Male is enough space between himself and the Females, things will be fine. Bottom Dwelling fish such as Corydoras, might take a bit of a beating, but if the tank is large enough, they'll soon learn to stay away from the Super Territory and sub-territories. These areas will be defended well, and I've had Apistogramma chase of full grown Discus away from their area. They are tenacious little fish when breeding.
Some brooding Females will even go as far as "stealing" the fry from other broods for their own. While I have never personally witnessed it, I can imagine it must be a sight to see.
Also, sometimes, when purchasing fish, especially breeding harems, once on occasion (I've had this happen only once with Apistogramma gibbiceps) a "Sneaker Male" shows up on the scene. This is a less dominant Male, that takes on the Female appearance to ensure it won't get harassed by the dominant Male and has the ability of disguise to breed with the other Females without attracting attention from the dominant Male.
If you want to breed fish, I always suggest giving Apistogramma a whirl, it's a bit of work, but the end result is fascinating and once again, very addictive.
Cave Spawners
The most predominant method of breeding is the Cave Spawner. The Cave Spawner has the protection of a covered area in which eggs and fry are protected 99% of the time by the Female. For Caves, you can use PVC Piping with a small hole notched out so that only the Female can fit in and out, a Clay Pot once again with a hole notched out or arrange Driftwood or decor to simulate a cave. I prefer the driftwood method or you can put a piece of PVC piping in the Driftwood and mask it with the decor. The choice is up to you.
For Cave Spawners, the duty falls onto the Female (most of the time, there are instances where roles switch) to watch guard and protect eggs/fry. The Female becomes a bright Yellow and sports her brood dress with deep black markings. This area will be guarded aggressively from other fish and the Male.
Open Spawners
Another method used is the open spawner. This has a unique behavior associated with this as both the Male and Female take the responsibility for guarding and rearing eggs and fry. Usually the site is a flat rock, placed somewhere in the open of the tank so the parents can watch all angles. Mikrogeophagus ramirezi prefer this method of spawning. Also, most often with Open Spawners, once a pair has formed, remove all other Dwarf Cichlids from the tank and leave the bonded Male and Female to themselves. Once again, research will tell you what to do. This is just a framework to get you started.
With Open Spawners, DO NOT disturb the spawning site, or the bond will be broken and problems could arise.
Substrate Spawners
A few of the Dwarf Cichlids will apply this method of breeding. They will create spawning pits (some of the above examples will do this for their fry) to lay their eggs and protect. Once again, the Male and Female will both take guard and responsibility of guarding/rearing of eggs/fry. As usual, as the bonded Pair form, remove all other Dwarf Cichlids from the tank and DO NOT disturb the site.
Spawning triggers are different from each group, so as I say (beginning to sound like a broken record)... research. Each species and brood type has it's own set of triggers to ensure to motivate them into breeding. Also, pH and temperature also play a role in gender of fry. Research, boy, sure is a lot of that eh?
Dedicated Spawning/Rearing Tank
While Dwarf Cichlids can breed in the average community Aquarium, predation on the eggs/fry is much higher and final yield are generally much lower than the dedicated spawning tank. This, in itself is it's own entity and the rules mentioned throughout this article should come into play.
Most dedicated tanks have the following;
(1) The tank, which I always use and recommend 20 GAL LONGS for this endeavour. Short, long and squat. They are the perfect breeding tank for Harem breeding Apistogramma.
(2) Sponge Filter, which is fry safe and provides a host of infusoria for the newly hatched fry to nibble on, along with the parents.
(3) Heater, setting it to the required temperature is important. Research your species.
(4) pH, setting it to the required pH is important.
(5) (a) Clay Pot/PVC Pipe for Cave Spawning for EACH of the Females
(b) Flat Rock for Open spawners. Once a pair forms, remove all other non-paired fish.
(c) Sandy substrate for Substrate Spawners. Once a pair forms, remove all other non-paired fish.
(6) A substrate of sand is usually the best (not too deep, say 1") for the breeding tank.
(7) Located in a "quieter" part of your home. Which is good for the Dwarf Cichlids and the noise of the air pump running the Sponge Filter.
(8) NO TANKMATES, Dwarf Cichlids Only! It's an exclusive club.
(9) Ensure if you can snails and other pests are not a part of the setup.
In closing, I would like to say that these fish come with a warning. They are very addictive.
My first Dwarf Cichlid was Apistogramma gibbiceps, and since then, I've never looked back. I've got into the major Blackwater species such as Apistogramma iniridae along with Dicrossus filamentosus.
I've worked with; A.agassizii, A.cacatuoides, A.velifera, A.iniridae, A.gibbiceps, A.pertensis, A.Steel Blue, D.filamentosus, M.ramirezi and A.trifasciata.
I would recommend these fish to anyone wishing to have something unique, though they are hard to find, A.cacatuoides and A.agassizi seem to be the most common, by the end of August beginning of September we'll see more Apistogramma on the lists and shops as this is start of the collecting season for these fish.
Follow the guidelines, do your research and enjoy. Oh, these are not long lived fish, I've had one live for 3 close to 4 years but that seems to be the maximum extreme. It's life in the fast lane for these little fish and 2 years is more of the norm for these.